Empty nesters traveling without kids?? We can’t believe it’s real!
Somehow, we survived the marathon of parenthood, and now, with the kids both shipped off to Universities, it feels like a new beginning. The first few weeks were not easy at home, it was very quiet and we were both jumpy. Setting a table for 4 during dinner time, calling out to kids at night, pacing around waiting for their texts – we did it all.
But then, yeah.. we got over it pretty fast and decided to pack our suitcases. The best part? The daily video calls where we proudly showcased our adventures just to see our mini-me’s roll their eyes and pout at our newfound freedom.
Ah, the sweet taste of revenge for all those “Mom, I’m bored, are we there yet” moments!
Why Barcelona?
Everyone we know has been to Barcelona—the most visited spot in Europe, maybe even the world. What’s the point of going somewhere so overhyped that even your neighbor’s cat probably has stories about it? No bragging rights, nothing mysterious or off the beaten path.
But then, blog after blog, friend after friend, kept raving about two things when it came to Barcelona: the food and the history. Honestly, that’s my perfect combo—all God’s creation that swims in the ocean, I’ll eat it, and if it’s older than 100 years, I’ll stare at it in awe. Turns out, the decision to visit was spot-on.
My only regret? Not staying longer. I came back convinced that if I ever had to retire anywhere other than the U.S. or India, Spain would be calling my name. What is there to not like about a city where people seem so laid back- Yes, I can get used to sitting on the patio at 10:00 AM with a glass of vermouth and taking a siesta soon after.
A bit of history
Whenever I travel, I make it a point to dig a little into the history and culture of the region. And when it comes to the Iberian Peninsula, we’re talking about a cultural tapestry so complex, it could make a historian’s head spin. So, I’m here to give you a quick, bite-sized overview of how this beautiful region came to be—just enough to add a touch of context to your next visit.
Let’s start with the basics: the peninsula that hosts modern-day Spain and Portugal is known as the Iberian Peninsula. While Spain today stands unified like India, it wasn’t always so seamless. Once upon a time, it was a patchwork of different groups, each with its language, cuisine, and culture. The Spain we know now is made up of 17 autonomous communities, each exercising its right to self-govern within the framework of the Spanish constitution. In other words, each of these regions functions a bit like a “country within a country.”
Speaking of unique regions, Barcelona—with its capital status in Catalonia—is a perfect example. Here, the locals speak Catalan, a language that, just like the city, carries centuries of history and pride. So, before you pack your bags and head off to sip sangria in the shadow of Gaudí’s masterpieces, keep in mind that what you’re seeing is the product of countless stories, influences, and eras. And that’s exactly what makes it so fascinating.
15 B.C.E. – Roman Emperor Augustus conquered the Iberian Peninsula and established a colony called Barcino. Before the Romans, the peninsula was inhabited by several Iberian tribes. Roman ruins from that era can still be found around the city.
500–1000 C.E. – The Roman Empire crumbled around 476 C.E., leaving the peninsula vulnerable.
711 A.D. – The Moors (Umayyad Caliphate), invading from North Africa, took over the Iberian Peninsula. The Moors were Muslim invaders who brought their distinct culture to the European region. The influence of the Moors was more limited in and around Barcelona compared to the southern parts of the peninsula.
801 A.D. – Louis the Pious, son of Charlemagne, captured Barcelona, making it part of the Frankish Empire and the capital of the newly established County of Barcelona. This event was part of the “Reconquista”—the recapturing of areas under Muslim-Moorish control by Christian forces.
1469 – King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile married, uniting the two largest kingdoms on the Iberian Peninsula. Together, they initiated the Spanish Golden Age, which included the completion of the Reconquista, the mass expulsion of Jews from Spain, the Spanish Inquisition, financing Christopher Columbus’s 1492 voyage to the New World, and establishing Spain as a major European powerhouse. Yes friends, she is the one who made America happen!
13th–15th centuries – Barcelona flourished as a major maritime power, leading in trade and cultural growth throughout the Mediterranean.
1500–1800 – Madrid became the capital of Spain, diverting resources and trade routes away from Barcelona, which led to the city’s decline.
1714 – The War of the Spanish Succession ended with Catalonia on the losing side. Their culture and language were suppressed as Madrid continued to rise.
Late 1700s – The city began to recover economically, with improvements in commerce and the emergence of new industries, laying the groundwork for the Industrial Revolution.
1854 – Queen Isabella II permitted the opening of the ancient Roman walls so that Barcelona could expand, leading to modern innovations and growth. The medieval walls of Barcelona were demolished to make way for the development of the Eixample district.
1888 – Barcelona hosted the Universal Exposition, showcasing its industrial and cultural revival and stimulating urban development.
1900–1930 – The city experienced rapid industrialization and became a center for modernist architecture, led by figures like Antoni Gaudí (e.g., La Sagrada Família, Casa Batlló).
1931–1939 – The Second Spanish Republic was established which was a democratic government established in Spain following the end of King Alfonso XIII’s reign, preceding the Spanish Civil War.
1936–1939 – The Spanish Civil War erupted. Barcelona was a major stronghold for the Republican side, which fought against Francisco Franco’s Nationalist forces. The city suffered heavy bombardment and civilian casualties.
1939 – Franco’s forces captured Barcelona, marking the end of the war and the beginning of a dictatorship that suppressed Catalan culture and autonomy for decades.
1939–1975 – Under Franco’s dictatorship, Catalonia’s institutions were dissolved, and the public use of the Catalan language was banned. The city faced repression but continued with underground cultural and political resistance. Violence and intimidation were common methods used to achieve Franco’s goals.
1975 – Franco’s death initiated Spain’s transition to democracy. This led to a revival of Catalan identity and the re-establishment of the Generalitat of Catalonia.
1992 – Barcelona hosted the Summer Olympics after a comprehensive overhaul of its waterfront and many key sites, re-establishing its presence as an international city.
2017–2018 – In late 2017, Catalonia held a referendum (deemed illegal by Madrid) in favor of formally separating from Spain. The Catalan government formally declared independence from Spain, which was deemed illegal by the Spanish government.
The fight for Catalonia’s independence from Spain continues to this day…
Highlights of the trip
The main areas of the city that host tons of attractions are El Raval, La Rambla, Eixample, and El Born. These four areas are next to each other, and you won’t even know when you walk from one area to another.
All About Gaudí: Modern Barcelona is all about one great architect and his handiwork—Antoni Gaudí. Have you ever seen artworks adorned with broken pottery glued together (trencadís)? That is the Gaudí effect. Mostly inspired by elements of nature, you will be in awe of how he transforms a landscape. Whether you like architecture or not, Gaudí’s works are definitely a must-see for Barcelona tourists. Personally, I am not very interested in architecture and found his work to be too overwhelming for my taste—but who am I to critique a world-renowned artist? Maybe a grape and peach on a church spire is awe-inspiring for some. Visit and judge for yourself.
- Sagrada Família: Infamous as the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world, this is definitely an icon of Barcelona. The church has been under construction since 1882 and is still actively being built. After Gaudí’s death, the construction has been handed over to his disciples. You can see the architectural influence of many in the construction. Get your ticket early if you want to get inside.
- Park Güell: This is a public park where Gaudí started his work and lived for most of his life. The park is farther away from the main city—you can either take the train, cab or walk. We took the Green Line train to Lesseps and walked for about 20 minutes—note that the park is high up on a mountain and the walk is quite steep and challenging. This place is very crowded, so get ready to compete with people for your best selfies.
- Many More Gaudi: There are many more structures designed by Gaudí in and around Barcelona. Since I was not very keen on architecture, I left it at that.
La Rambla: If you ever visit the Big Apple, would you miss going to Times Square? Yes, this is just a tree-lined street, but you could easily call it the spine of Barcelona. This is the most crowded two-mile acacia-lined stretch in the city—a tourist trap in every sense. The street runs with the Gothic Quarter to its east and El Raval to the west. The place is alive late at night, with music, dance, vendors, tapas—you name it. Anything you have heard of associated with Barcelona can be found there. The metro train line runs underneath to make travel easier. While you are there, do some tapas hopping and get into the Spanish spirit. I enjoyed the time we spend walking around Rambla
Flamenco: Do not leave Spain without experiencing Flamenco. Flamenco is believed to have developed by the Romani people but was highly influenced by Jewish and Moorish cultures over centuries. We got tickets for a Flamenco show in Barcelona, and tickets usually come with tapas and drinks. The show lasts about two hours and is a combination of tap dancing, guitar, and throaty vocal music. I found it very interesting—even if you are new to the culture and language, you can understand every emotion expressed during the show. This is a must-do if you visit Barcelona.
Gothic Quarter: This was my favorite part of the city. Old buildings and cobblestone streets, just wide enough for a Roman horse-drawn carriage will get your heart racing. If you are looking for history dating to Roman times, this is where you should look. Look out for gargoyles staring at you from behind the ancient stone buildings that stood the test of time.
We set out to explore some not-so-popular treasures in the Gothic Quarter. Although I am not an expert on the authenticity of the stories, here are some tidbits—try to find them when you visit:
Barcelona Cathedral: Built in the 13th century, this is a must-see place in Barcelona. Personally, if I had to choose between the Sagrada Família and this, I would pick the Barcelona Cathedral in a heartbeat. There is a fee to visit the cathedral, but if you go for Mass, it is free. Visiting this place, I was surprised at how similar it was to the Santo Domingo Cathedral we visited in the Dominican Republic. The typical Spanish architecture and style make it magnificent. Remember to get the audio tour explaining the different areas of the cathedral. Be sure to look for the 13 geese kept inside the cathedral and the gargoyles. Take the elevator to the roof to view the city from above. On the roof, look for a small enclosure with an opening at the bottom. Apparently, the bell ringers who stayed in the towers didn’t get enough breaks to walk down to use the bathroom, and that small enclosure served the purpose, with waste falling to the streets. Talk about Europe in the Middle Ages. Another interesting thing to look for from above is a statue of Columbus and the Barcelona port.
Temple of Augustus: Dating to the 4th century AD, this place is hidden away inside a newer building. Only a few columns are left from the structure, but hey, when it comes to history, a few columns are enough to spark your imagination about all the great Roman kings kneeling there. This place is a short walk from the Barcelona Cathedral and is located on Carrer del Paradís (Carrer means street, translating to Paradise Street). This also marks the highest point of the Roman city.
Picasso and Dalí: You will see a lot of interesting places associated with Picasso, as he spent his early days in Barcelona. If you like art, visit the Picasso Museum which isvery close to the Gothic Quarter and the Dalí Museum near the Cathedral. Walk along Carrer D’ Avinyo and look for #44—this is a famous brothel that inspired Picasso to paint one of his first cubist paintings, “The Young Ladies of Avignon.” During the medieval period, brothels in Barcelona would use a “carassa” on the facade of their buildings to indicate brothal locations—Carassa is sculptures of faces embedded on the walls. “Carassa”in Catalan means “big face”
Jewish Bath: Another hidden spot worth a glance is the Jewish baths hidden right in the Gothic Quarter. Look for a store named Oliver Decoración. Go to the back of the store, and you will see the remains of the 12th-century Jewish baths still standing the test of time.
Santa Maria del Mar: If you step outside of the Gothic Quarter, another great area to explore is the El Born neighborhood. I found this area less crowded than La Rambla and the Gothic Quarter and much more authentic. One of the most interesting places we visited was this Gothic basilica built in the 14th century. Touching the stones of the building made my heart jump. I was interested in going here because of the book Cathedral of the Sea. It is a book I have set aside to read after my Barcelona trip, hoping to connect with the story better. If you love historic structures, this is a gem you don’t want to miss. Look for really good tapas places around this neighborhood. You can get to the El Born area via metro from La Rambla.
La Boqueria : I found a lot of places in Barcelona to be tourist traps, and this was one of them. The La Boqueria market was recommended by many people, but we found the place to be heavily geared towards tourists. Most items we found there were available in other markets for a quarter of the price. It’s still a great place to see, but I wouldn’t buy anything there.
For the foodies
There is no visiting Barcelona without experiencing the great culinary scene. What we noticed was that people enjoy food and conversations in this country. You will see folks of every age sitting outside, enjoying a drink and tapas, and talking loudly—both tourists and locals alike. It’s a heartwarming feeling, especially when you travel from the US. Another interesting thing I noticed was that there were lots of older people out and about everywhere we looked. They seemed happy and relaxed. It has to be the good weather and great wine. What else do we need in life.
Recommending a few items that I tried:
Tapas: Not a single dish, but tapas are small-portion servings available all over the place. The best way to enjoy a drink and tapas is to hop around and experience a variety of items. I mostly had seafood tapas: squid, octopus, sardines, mackerel, clams, and mussels, to name a few. We also tried pa amb tomàquet (tomato with bread) and black sausage although I didn’t care for it much.
Iberian Jamón: It’s a melt-in-the-mouth cured ham. The taste is very much like prosciutto.
Bombas and Croquetas: I tried them since a lot of people recommended them, but I didn’t really care for either. They are stuffed, fried dough.
Paella: We tried paella almost every day. More on that when I write about Valencia, where it actually originated.
Drinks: Although everyone was sipping sangria there, I loved vermouth. I can see it becoming a staple at my home in Chicago too.
What to read
A trip will not be complete without adding a book or two. Visiting local bookstores is a must do vacation agenda for me and the memorabilia I bring back from every place is a book – either about that place or written by someone local. But I have to confess, it gets forgotten as soon as I get home and gets thrown into my basement pile of future ‘retirement reads’ .
Here are some interesting reads for your trip:
- Homage to Barcelona by Colm Tóibín
I came across this book in a small bookshop on La Rambla. Barcelona was interesting because every shop I visited had only a few books in English—so finding this book collecting dust among all the Catalan and Spanish titles was a surprise. I started it on the last day of my stay and wished I had read it prior to the trip. I highly recommend this one if you are visiting Barcelona—but unlike me, read it prior to your trip. Everything from history to interesting, unique cultural quirks is presented very well. You will also get a good idea about the political evolution that has shaped the current city. Keep in mind that the book only covers Barcelona and not all of Spain.
- Homage to Catalonia by George Orwell
I started it but soon realized this book focuses solely on the time of the civil war and stopped reading it without finishing. If you enjoy wartime experiences from the ’30s, you might like it. - Cathedral of the Sea by Ildefonso Falcones
- This book is something I plan to read now that I have seen the place. I heard that there is a Netflix series based on the story, so maybe that will be my shortcut now.
Wish I Knew…
- Booking Early: Most of the modern attractions in Barcelona require an entry ticket. Tickets for places like Sagrada Família and Park Güell usually run out weeks in advance. Entry times are set, and it is worth getting an English guide so you can understand the history of these places better. Book in advance so you can plan accordingly.
- Trains: The metro is a very convenient way to travel. Metro cards are easy to purchase and use in the city landscape. Long-distance trains are run by Renfe.
- Cabs: We found that Uber does not work in many places. There are a few local apps that you can use to call a taxi, like Cabify.
- Stay: We stayed right on La Rambla, but tbh, this was the worst accommodation we have ever booked. The room was the size of a walk-in closet with no window, and it showed four stars when we booked it.
- Safety: All our experienced friends warned us about pickpockets and shared scary stories about losing everything from passports to shoelaces. Be cautious: always carry your belongings in a front-facing bag and never take your eyes off them. The warning is real, and you are not likely to get your stuff back. Make sure to have digital backups and copies of all your important documents. Fortunately for us, we didn’t lose anything during the trip—probably because of the paranoia I developed after hearing the scary stories.
- Walking: Bring your best walking shoes-you are in the city and will be constantly walking. Be prepared to log 30K+ steps daily.
- Bullfighting: Come on, people, it’s cruel and banned in Barcelona. Go elsewhere if you really want to see it.